If you need an introduction to what pineapple cakes are, I suggest this. If you would prefer to drool over a picture of one instead, here you go:

Commercially prepared pineapple cakes (especially the cheaper ones) typically contain a mixture of pineapple and winter melon in the filling. Most recipes for making pineapple cakes at home will tell you to start with canned crushed pineapple and/or strain off the excess liquid (pineapples are 85%+ water by weight). Both are wrong. The “secret ingredient” to good pineapple cakes is just real fruit and having the patience to reduce the filling rather than pouring off the flavor.
The one piece of equipment you’re probably missing to make these are molds. Pineapple cakes are molded pastries. You can find molds in a variety of shapes on Amazon from no-name Chinese brands. You want something no bigger than 2″x2″. Square vs rectangle/etc isn’t important.
You want to select a pineapple that is properly ripe. It should be mostly or entirely golden-yellow, have a nice sweet fruity smell at the base, and the leaves in the crown should look green and healthy. It should not be orange, have any externally visible mildew, or be either rock hard or excessively soft. Pineapples don’t ripen after they are picked from the fields so you need to get one that’s good at the store.
A single pineapple, depending on its size, how aggressively you trim it, and the size of your pastry molds, will produce enough filling for 15-30 pineapple cakes.
Filling (the night before)
- 1 pineapple, properly cut
- ½ cup of sugar (white vs brown doesn’t matter, I typically use half white and half brown)
- (Optionally) 1 tsp or less of lemon/lime juice
If you’ve never cut a pineapple before, here’s a helpful video on how to do it. If you’re not concerned about waste, instead of cutting out each individual row of eyes you can simply remove more of the side flesh. Regardless, when you’re done, you should have pineapple with no eyes and no core. You can chop this up into small pieces with a knife or crush it with your hands and reserve the knife for any long fibrous bits. Either way it will produce a lot of juice, so be sure to do this last part in or over a pot.
You need to reduce and cook the pineapple until it becomes like a jam. If there is too much moisture remaining in the filling it will either be too difficult to work with when filling pastries or it will seep into the pastry filling after cooking making it soggy. Heat the pineapple until the juices are boiling, stirring and using a spoon to break up any remaining larger pieces of pineapple. The heat will slowly break down intact bits of pineapple and release the moisture from inside them. For a while it will not seem as if the pineapple is getting any drier but it will get smaller in volume as pieces break down. Keep going.
Once the pineapple has all broken down into a mush add the sugar. Sugar helps draw more water out of the fruit and promotes caramelization (aka flavor). Continue cooking the filling until there is so little free water that you can pile the jam on one side of your pot with a spoon and the both a) the jam will stay there and b) water will not seep out of the jam to cover the bare areas of the pot. That is when you are done.
Optionally, to balance the added sugar, you can put a bit of lemon or lime juice into the filling to add some tartness back in. Do this at the very end and mix it in thoroughly.
Once the right consistency is achieved, remove from heat and allow it to cool to room temperature before refrigerating. Alternatively, freeze it to keep it for longer periods of time.
Dough
- 1 stick of (room temperature) butter
- ¼ cup of confectioners/icing sugar
- (Optionally if using unsalted butter) a pinch of salt
- 1 egg
-
¼ cup of milk powder
- 1 tsp of baking powder
-
(Optionally) a few drops of vanilla extract
- Around 1 ¼ cups of pastry flour
The pastry dough used is similar to shortcake. The fat and the low-protein pastry or cake flour combine to produce a low amount of gluten and thus a “crumbly” texture. All purpose flour is an acceptable substitute though it will produce a different texture. What makes this dough particularly Taiwanese in flavor is the milk powder. That is not optional! Milk powder can be found at many Targets if your regular grocery does not carry it.
Leave the butter out overnight to soften it. Cream the butter and sugar together as if you are making icing. This is the most important step in making the pastry dough, so watch the video even if you think you know what you’re doing. You can keep going more than 2 minutes, it’s essentially impossible to overbeat the mixture at this stage.
Once that is complete, add any salt, the egg, the milk powder, the baking powder, and any vanilla, in that order. The order is not important for flavor or anything but milk powder and baking powder are very light and have a tendency to move and splatter if you drop something heavy like an egg on them in the wrong way. Mix until uniform, taking time to scrape down the sides of the bowl.
Finally, add the flour. The ideal amount will vary a little bit depending on your specific flour. You want the final product to be dry enough to work with but not too heavy on the flour. With the flour I use 1.25 cups is sufficient. Add the flour and mix until just combined but no more. Unlike making bread, you do not want to develop gluten. Turn the dough out onto a work surface (I use wax paper for this) and combine and shape it into a log. Chill for an hour or so to make the dough harder and easier to work with.
Pastries
Preheat your oven to 325F (if you have a convection over) or a bit short of 350F (if you do not).
The exact amount of dough to use depends on the size of your molds, so some trial and error is involved here. You should aim for a dough to filling ratio of 10:6 if you have a “simple” mold shape like a rectangle, square, or circle or 10:5 if you have a “complex” shape with more surface area (like a pineapple shaped mold). Press the dough flat with your hand (or roll it out with a small pin). Place the filling in the center of the dough and mold the dough around it to completely enclose the filling. Then place the dough ball into your pastry mold and gently press it into the correct shape. If the filling breaks through the dough anywhere take some excess dough and mold it over the hole.
The warmth of your hands will soften the dough and make it more pliable so use that to your advantage, but also work at a reasonable pace before the dough becomes too soft. You want the cakes to be a bit smaller than the mold because they will expand somewhat when baking.
Bake the pastries for 10-12 minutes on one side, then flip them and give them 8-10 minutes on the other side. You want to develop some color on the sides that are not facing the mold itself. Keep an eye on them the first time until you learn what works in your oven.
Although these pineapple cakes are traditionally eaten completely cool, they’re even better when they’re slightly warm!